Use a common nymph-body technique to tie realistic minnow streamers.
[by Scott Sanchez]
OVER THE YEARS, I’VE SEEN braided bodies become more common on nymph patterns, likely because a variety of braiding styles allow tyers to create fly bodies with a variegated, two-tone effect (dark on top and light on the bottom) like many naturals. Generally, tyers braid materials in a side-to-side fashion so the end effect is a wide nymph body, but another great technique is to braid materials vertically to create wide but thin bodies, similar to a baitfish profile.
I first saw this type of fly in a selection of sample flies a vendor brought into Dan Bailey’s Fly Shop. Among the many saltwater patterns was an interesting baitfish that on closer inspection was made of braided ultra chenille. The barring on the fly was quite remarkable. It looked similar to parr marks or the pattern on the side of a mackerel, but I remember thinking it was a good option to imitate any number of baitfish. It also had a solid, dark back and light belly, likely achieved through the use of what’s called a half-hitch braid. The half hitch braiding technique is not as common as other braid styles, but it is easy to learn and has the advantage of not slipping after each maneuver since each section forms a secure knot.
Tying One On
Half-hitch braiding is a pretty simple process. Once you secure material onto the hook with thread, just make a half hitch around the body of the pattern and tighten the material onto the hook. If you have tied a half hitch or whip finished the head of a fly, you already know how to do it.
To start a half hitch, make a loop with your material near the hook eye, keeping the tag end of the material on the inside of the loop (Figure 1). Slide the loop over the hook eye and down the hook shank (Figure 2). Set the loop in place where you want the body to begin, or against the last material added to the pattern, and pull the loop tight so it seats firmly on the hook shank (Figure 3).
The placement of your half hitch knots, whether it is along the bottom or top of the hook shank, will create the top or the belly of the fly. As you add more half hitches, make sure the back and belly of the fly align with the previous half hitches and that your fly body doesn’t rotate. Also, if the knotted sections don’t butt against one another, you can push them back early in the process to prevent gaps, but once you complete the body, it’s pretty difficult.
If you want to accentuate the half hitch’s variegated effect, you can add an underbody of weighted wire by wrapping it around the shank, or tying it in strands on opposing sides of the shank (See the May/June 2015 issue of American Angler for underbody tips).
The butts of the tail material also make an excellent underbody. Instead of lashing down the tail near the hook bend, secure the butts near the front of the hook and then continue along the hook shank. Just remember that whatever filament you use, try to keep the proportions even. Secure this along the entire hook shank as I mentioned with tail material. When building up the underbody it needs to be especially secure so it won’t twist. Materials twisting around the hook shank make tying any fly tough, but it is a nightmare when braiding. For added assurance, secure the base of your braiding materials to the tying thread and hook with cyanoacrylate adhesive (Super Glue).
BRAIDED MINNOW
HOOK: Dai-Riki 700, sizes 1 to 6.
THREAD: Gray 140 denier.
WEIGHT: Silver ¼-inch conehead.
WEIGHT: .035 weighted wire.
TAIL: Black over gray marabou.
BODY: Black and silver Diamond Braid.
EYES: 3/16-inch molded eyes.
Tying the Braided Minnow
NOTE: You can tie this fly in numerous color and size combinations. Some good options are gold/brown, pearl/olive, pearl/grey, silver/blue and pearl/chartreuse.
When braiding, you need to knot and cut off your tying thread before braiding as it will get in the way. After you complete the braiding, attach the thread to the hook again and secure the tag end of the braid. Some tyers find it easier to braid if they turn the vise so the hook eye faces them. A half hitch tool, basically a hollow tube, may make it easier for some tyers to complete the half hitch without getting fingers in the way. If you’re struggling to maneuver loops over a bead or conehead, slip a gutted plastic pen into the loop, put the eye of the hook inside the hollow shaft, and slide the loop down the pen, over the weight, and onto the hook.
Ultra Braid Minnow
HOOK: Dai-Riki 700, sizes 1 to 6.
THREAD: Yellow 140 denier.
WEIGHT: .035 lead wire.
TAIL: Brown marabou.
BODY: Fluorescent yellow and brown ultra chenille
EYES: 5/16” molded eyes glued on.
Almost Coffey Minnow
HOOK: Dai-Riki 700, sizes 1 to 6.
THREAD: Brown 140 denier.
HEAD: Gold Fish Skull.
WEIGHT: .035 lead wire.
TAIL: Brown over yellow marabou.
BODY: Yellow and brown Krystal Chenille.
Mylar Minnow
HOOK: Dai-Riki 930, sizes 1/0 to 6.
THREAD: White 140 denier.
HEAD: Silver I-Balz.
TAIL: Chartreuse marabou and six strands of
chartreuse Krystal Flash.
BODY: Pearl and chartreuse Krystal Chenille.
Body Braid Materials
Solid, single filament materials like chenille are easier to braid than stringy, fibrous materials like long strands of Z-lon because you don’t have loose fibers to contend with when forming or sliding half hitches onto the hook. You also don’t want to use materials that are too delicate. Use materials that can withstand the pulling weight required to cinch down a half hitch. Ultra or vernille chenille are some of the easiest materials to half hitch and are available in a variety of colors and sizes. In fact, the ultra chenille coating is adhered to a very strong cord, and since it’s strong and fairly smooth, it’s easy to pull the knot tight. It also doesn’t compress so it makes a wide body for its size. My favorite diameters are standard (small) and medium.
You can use regular chenille, though be aware it requires a gentle hand since the cotton core isn’t strong and it can be prone to unraveling. Also the deep knap of the fibers requires a little coaxing to pull knots tight.
Mylar braid is a great option because it’s available in a wide array of baitfish colors. Diamond Braid, Poly Flash, and Poly Braid are common brands though the standard diameter is better for minnows than the small or chironomid sizes. When you’ve finished a fly, you can coat the Mylar body with a clear, UV-activated finish, epoxy or coatings that add to the fly’s depth and durability.
Vinyl tubing like Larvae Lace can also be used. The hollow core compresses and knots fairly effortlessly and is easier to manipulate than solid vinyl cords. Since these materials are transparent, you can add flash or color to the fly underbody so subtle hues shine through.
Mylar chenille like Krystal Chenille can work well, though the best is about a eighth of an inch in diameter and doesn’t fray. To test it, try to pull the Mylar fibers out. If it easily pulls apart, don’t use it. If it holds together, use it. It will require a bit of coaxing at the end to pull tight, so slowly and uniformly pull the half hitch tight until it seats.
With the number and size of materials available, the half hitch braid will make effective patterns for species ranging from trout or warmwater to offshore patterns. It is a great alternative use of a method typically relegated to nymph patterns, but with a little creativity, you can use this tying technique to its full potential.
Scott Sanchez is the shop manager at JD High Country Outfitters in Jackson, Wyoming. He won the first Federation of Fly Fishers Iron Fly Contest in 2014.